The New York Times has included La Sirena, a 22-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Ephraim, Wisconsin, on its 2026 list of the country’s 50 favorite restaurants, elevating the small Door County establishment into national culinary conversation.
From a tiny harbor town to a national roster
La Sirena, at 9996 Pioneer Lane, is the only Wisconsin restaurant named on the Times’ list this year. The newspaper sent a team of 16 reporters across the country to compile the selection, which spotlights newly notable spots from major cities — including New York, Chicago and San Francisco — to quieter communities. The inclusion highlights the growing attention paid to regional and seasonal cuisine crafted outside traditional dining capitals.
Owners Carlos Salgado and Emilie Coulson Salgado opened La Sirena in August 2025 in the village of Ephraim, which has a year-round population of roughly 400. The restaurant seats 22 guests and operates year-round, offering a rotating tasting menu that ties Door County’s seasonal produce to Salgado’s Mexican culinary roots.
A menu built around place and tradition
The Times review emphasizes the setting and menu architecture: Eagle Harbor glitters beyond the restaurant’s windows while the kitchen places Salgado’s hand-milled heirloom corn tortillas at the center of each tasting progression. Local proteins and produce — including whitefish, salmon, chicken, ramps, mushrooms and cherries — appear alongside sides such as oregano-infused rice, mayocoba beans, Chihuahua peppers and avocado seasoned with burnt lime.
The accolade follows a string of recognitions for Salgado. His former Orange County, California, restaurant, Taco María, earned a Michelin star annually from 2019 through 2023 and was named by Eater among the most important restaurants of the previous 20 years in 2025. Taco María also received sustained praise from late Los Angeles critic Jonathan Gold, appearing in his top-five list for Los Angeles from 2015 to 2017 and again on regional lists through 2022.
What the recognition means for Door County
For a rural tourism and dining destination such as Door County, national recognition can deepen visitor interest beyond established summer crowds. While La Sirena is small and reservation-dependent, the Times’ attention often yields additional demand for tables, media coverage and ancillary economic ripple effects for local food producers and hospitality businesses.
- Restaurant: La Sirena
- Location: 9996 Pioneer Lane, Ephraim (Door County), Wisconsin
- Seating: 22
- Owners/Chef: Carlos Salgado and Emilie Coulson Salgado
- Opened: August 2025
La Sirena’s journey from a quiet village to a national list reflects a broader culinary trend: reviewers and diners are increasingly seeking restaurants that connect place-based ingredients with distinct personal or cultural narratives. In La Sirena’s case, that narrative combines Door County produce with techniques and flavors rooted in Salgado’s Mexican background.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Address | 9996 Pioneer Lane, Ephraim |
| Seating | 22 seats |
| Notable past honors (chef) | Taco María: Michelin star 2019–2023 |
| Menu focus | Tasting menu blending Door County produce and Mexican-inspired dishes |
While the Times’ piece noted the setting — calling attention to the “serene Door County scenery” visible from the restaurant — it also underlined the technical rigor of the food: the hand-milled tortillas and the careful pairing of local seafood, meats and produce with complementary accompaniments.
For diners seeking to visit, La Sirena’s small size makes reservations essential; the restaurant’s tasting-menu format and limited seating suggest a focused, prearranged dining experience rather than walk-in service. For Door County’s wider hospitality industry, such recognition may encourage expanded interest in off-season travel and farm-to-table producers who supply high-end kitchens.
As national attention continues to migrate beyond metropolitan centers, restaurants like La Sirena illustrate how local ingredients, culinary heritage and precise technique can combine to attract critical acclaim — and, for small towns, a broader audience of visitors and food enthusiasts.
Camille Rousseau is WE NEWS’ state correspondent covering regional culture and food trends.
